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It’s the reason why, after visiting 29 of Croatia’s 79 islands (of which 47 are inhabited), this archipelago in the Adriatic remains my favourite. It begins in Stari Grad, the island’s ...

Other local specialties include oysters from Mali Ston (a village on Croatia's coast), smoked ham ... Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant at the Hotel Stari Grad. You'll pay a pretty penny for a table ...

Car ferries arrive at Stari Grad, 16km (ten miles) to the east of Hvar town, where traffic is barred from the centre. Seven a day run from Split in summer, three in winter (1hr 45mins, 39kn foot ...